Post by Frost on Apr 6, 2014 21:56:01 GMT
The moss-covered hollow is where apprentices train with their mentors. Want to know some warrior hunting and fighting techniques? Here's a list: (credit goes to forums.warriorcats.com/topic/362288771041575324)
Hunting Techniques:
Hunter's Crouch - Keep your body low with your tail sticking straight ahead. Hind legs must be ready to leap and front paws must be ready to pounce. Is also a good fighting techinique.
Fishing Catch - When fishing in a lake or river.keep your reflection away from the water. When the fish comes, quickly hook your paw into the water and scoop the fish onto the surface. Finish it off with a quick killing bit.
Squirrel Race - When the squirrel runs up a tree to escape, you quickly run up the trunk beside the squirrel until your fast enough to block it to the top of the tree. You chase it down next and hopefully catch it. Very complicated technique.
Bird Leap - When the bird is aware that it is being hunted and begins to fly up, you leap as high as you can and bat the bird back down. Recommended for older apprentices to learn.
Mouse Stalker - Keep your pawsteps light on the ground and try to slide them so the mouse won't feel your pawsteps.
Rabbit Fishing - A techinique when you are desperate for prey. Find a rabbit hole and make sure a rabbit's in there. Then, wait silently until rabbit's head pops out. Scoop it out like you are fishing, and hopefully catch it.
Battle Moves:
Back kick - Explosive surprise more to catch opponent from Behind. Judge opponents distances from you carefully, then lash out with you back legs, taking the weight on your front paws.
Back rake - A bit like Belly rake, if your a SkyClan cat this move works best. If your fighting a cat from the front, jump over the cats head and score your claws down their back.
Belly rake - A fight stopper. Slice with unsheathed claws across soft flesh of opponents belly. If your pinned down, the belly rake quickly puts you back in control.
Double death bite - Seems dishonorable and is only used against very evil cats. A partner and you take on one cat. Once you've got a hold of your opponent, your partner helps hold down enemy cat, and you both bite hard down on enemy cat's throat. Two pairs of jaws will cut off airway and cat will choke to death. Like I said, it's considered dishonorable and would only be used against evil cats like Tigerstar.
Dizzy dance - Only can be preformed by a extremely small and quick cat against a larger and at least somewhat slower cat. The cat charges head on then swiftly leaped sideways, ducking under the cat then as soon as the cat preforming this attack is out from under the other cat it spins and leaps over it. Then once More spins but rams the side then jumps over/goes under the cat and rams the other side then land one final blow by leaping onto the cat's back and grabbing the scruff with teeth and using your free paws to batter the cat's head. This attack should in the end result in a dizzy or confused enemy.
Dizzy tackle - A great move for swift young warriors facing older, larger warriors. You run in circles around them at top speed until their to dizzy or tired (if the were chasing you) to keep up. Then you tackle them. While they are down, attack. Caution, standing directly over them makes you vulnerable to the Belly Rake. This is a One-on-one move and is not recommended in a place with many foes.
Front paw blow - Frontal Attack. Bring your front paws down hard on you opponents head, claws unsheathed.
Front paw strike - Frontal attack. Slice downward with your front paw at the body or face of your opponent. Claws unsheathed.
Killing bite - A death blow to the back of the neck. Quick and silent and sometimes considered dishonorable. Used only as a last resort.
Leap and hold - Ideal for a small cat facing a large opponent. Spring onto the opponents back and grip with unsheathed claws. Now you are beyond the range of your opponent paws and in the position to inflict severe body wounds. A group of apprentices can defeat a large and dangerous warrior in this way.
Leap-and-cover - Ideal for making your opponent feel much pain, leap onto your opponent's back and put your paws over their eyes. For the moment the opponent is blinded, sink your claws into the soft skin around their eyes. If your opponent doesn't run away, take advantage of their temporary blindness and perform leap-and-hold move.
Making sure - You never know if a opponent is actually dead. When an opponent goes limp, they become vunerable, so make sure they are really dead. Bite and slash. Claws unsheathed. When you think they have gone to StarClan, pray and leave.
Partner fighting - Warriors who have trained and fought together will often instinctively fall into a paired defensive position, each protecting the others back while fending off an opponent o either side. Slashing, clawing, and leaping together, battle pairs can be whirlwind of danger for attackers.
Play dead - Effective in a tight situation, such as when you are pinned. Stop struggling and go limp. When your opponent relaxed his grip, thinking you are defeated, push yourself up explosively. This will throw off an unwary opponent and you are in the attacking position.
Scruff shake - Secure a strong teeth grip in the scuff of your opponents neck, then shake violently until he or she is to rattled to fight back. Most effective against rats, which are small enough to throw. A strong throw will stun or kill them.
Tail trip - The opponent moves to you and at the right moment, trip them with your tail.
Teeth grip - Target your opponents extremists- the legs, tail, scuff, or ears- ans sink in your teeth and hold. This move is similar to the leap and hold, except your claws remain free to fight.
Unbalancing act - If a cat is going to bring down all its weight on you while rearing on its back legs, role towards your opponents hind legs to unbalance him.
Upright lock - Finial, crushing more on already weakened opponent. Rear up on your back legs and bring full weight on your opponent. If opponent does the same, wrestle and flip him under you. This move makes you vulnerable to the belly rake, so requires great strength and speed.
And here are some battle tactics: (credit goes to forums.warriorcats.com/topic/362288771041575324 too)
Approach from behind your enemy - The advantage is gaining the higher ground is that you can charge at greater speed at the enemy, who will be weakened by having to fight uphill.
Use the light from the sun - The sun should be behind you to dazzle your Use the light from the sun enemy. In green leaf, the midday sun is especially bright and cruel to cats who are used to sulking under the cover of the trees. In leaf bare, the low sun hovers around the eye line like a troublesome bee, keep your enemy from facing it, and they'll have trouble seeing an attacker from any direction.
Know were the wind is coming from - If there is a strong wind, it should be blow from behind you toward the enemy, blinding them with dust and holding them back like a current of a river. If you wish to preserve the element of surprise, the wind should blow from the enemy position toward you so your scent is carried away from them.
Conceal the size of your force - The number of cats in your battle patrols can be hidden to confuse the enemy from a distance. Cats packed tightly together will appear as a small attacking force, encouraging the enemy to be over confidant and make poor strategic decisions. Alternatively, is cats are spread out in signal file, they will look like a solid border of warriors, which will seem impenetrable to an advancing enemy.
Attack from both ends of the Enemy first - If both ends of the enemy line are defeated, the cats in the center of the line will have to fight the two fronts. Even if they are outnumbered, the will be out flanked, vulnerable, and in disarray.
Keep fresh warriors in reserve - Always have adequate reserves of fresh, fit warriors behind the battle line. They will be able to replace injured warriors, launch a separate attack if the enemy tries to encircle your forces, or fend off a surprise enemy from the rear. If the battle is in your favor, finish it by sending your reserve warriors behind the enemy line to surround them and demand surrender.
Feigned retreat and ambush - A group of strong cats charges at the enemy, screeching, then turns and withdraws. Repeat this until the infuriated enemy finally breaks it's line and gives chase. Then the trap is sprung. Other warriors positioned in rabbit holes and other dips in the ground-out of enemy eyes line- attack as soon as your opponents have gone past. The enemy will be forced to stop and turn around to fight the unexpected threat, as they do the retreating cats must turn and charge back at them with full speed. The enemy is caught between two bodies of attacking cats and will quickly surrender.
Here is a picture of the mossy hollow:
Training Rocks:
Hunting Techniques:
Hunter's Crouch - Keep your body low with your tail sticking straight ahead. Hind legs must be ready to leap and front paws must be ready to pounce. Is also a good fighting techinique.
Fishing Catch - When fishing in a lake or river.keep your reflection away from the water. When the fish comes, quickly hook your paw into the water and scoop the fish onto the surface. Finish it off with a quick killing bit.
Squirrel Race - When the squirrel runs up a tree to escape, you quickly run up the trunk beside the squirrel until your fast enough to block it to the top of the tree. You chase it down next and hopefully catch it. Very complicated technique.
Bird Leap - When the bird is aware that it is being hunted and begins to fly up, you leap as high as you can and bat the bird back down. Recommended for older apprentices to learn.
Mouse Stalker - Keep your pawsteps light on the ground and try to slide them so the mouse won't feel your pawsteps.
Rabbit Fishing - A techinique when you are desperate for prey. Find a rabbit hole and make sure a rabbit's in there. Then, wait silently until rabbit's head pops out. Scoop it out like you are fishing, and hopefully catch it.
Battle Moves:
Back kick - Explosive surprise more to catch opponent from Behind. Judge opponents distances from you carefully, then lash out with you back legs, taking the weight on your front paws.
Back rake - A bit like Belly rake, if your a SkyClan cat this move works best. If your fighting a cat from the front, jump over the cats head and score your claws down their back.
Belly rake - A fight stopper. Slice with unsheathed claws across soft flesh of opponents belly. If your pinned down, the belly rake quickly puts you back in control.
Double death bite - Seems dishonorable and is only used against very evil cats. A partner and you take on one cat. Once you've got a hold of your opponent, your partner helps hold down enemy cat, and you both bite hard down on enemy cat's throat. Two pairs of jaws will cut off airway and cat will choke to death. Like I said, it's considered dishonorable and would only be used against evil cats like Tigerstar.
Dizzy dance - Only can be preformed by a extremely small and quick cat against a larger and at least somewhat slower cat. The cat charges head on then swiftly leaped sideways, ducking under the cat then as soon as the cat preforming this attack is out from under the other cat it spins and leaps over it. Then once More spins but rams the side then jumps over/goes under the cat and rams the other side then land one final blow by leaping onto the cat's back and grabbing the scruff with teeth and using your free paws to batter the cat's head. This attack should in the end result in a dizzy or confused enemy.
Dizzy tackle - A great move for swift young warriors facing older, larger warriors. You run in circles around them at top speed until their to dizzy or tired (if the were chasing you) to keep up. Then you tackle them. While they are down, attack. Caution, standing directly over them makes you vulnerable to the Belly Rake. This is a One-on-one move and is not recommended in a place with many foes.
Front paw blow - Frontal Attack. Bring your front paws down hard on you opponents head, claws unsheathed.
Front paw strike - Frontal attack. Slice downward with your front paw at the body or face of your opponent. Claws unsheathed.
Killing bite - A death blow to the back of the neck. Quick and silent and sometimes considered dishonorable. Used only as a last resort.
Leap and hold - Ideal for a small cat facing a large opponent. Spring onto the opponents back and grip with unsheathed claws. Now you are beyond the range of your opponent paws and in the position to inflict severe body wounds. A group of apprentices can defeat a large and dangerous warrior in this way.
Leap-and-cover - Ideal for making your opponent feel much pain, leap onto your opponent's back and put your paws over their eyes. For the moment the opponent is blinded, sink your claws into the soft skin around their eyes. If your opponent doesn't run away, take advantage of their temporary blindness and perform leap-and-hold move.
Making sure - You never know if a opponent is actually dead. When an opponent goes limp, they become vunerable, so make sure they are really dead. Bite and slash. Claws unsheathed. When you think they have gone to StarClan, pray and leave.
Partner fighting - Warriors who have trained and fought together will often instinctively fall into a paired defensive position, each protecting the others back while fending off an opponent o either side. Slashing, clawing, and leaping together, battle pairs can be whirlwind of danger for attackers.
Play dead - Effective in a tight situation, such as when you are pinned. Stop struggling and go limp. When your opponent relaxed his grip, thinking you are defeated, push yourself up explosively. This will throw off an unwary opponent and you are in the attacking position.
Scruff shake - Secure a strong teeth grip in the scuff of your opponents neck, then shake violently until he or she is to rattled to fight back. Most effective against rats, which are small enough to throw. A strong throw will stun or kill them.
Tail trip - The opponent moves to you and at the right moment, trip them with your tail.
Teeth grip - Target your opponents extremists- the legs, tail, scuff, or ears- ans sink in your teeth and hold. This move is similar to the leap and hold, except your claws remain free to fight.
Unbalancing act - If a cat is going to bring down all its weight on you while rearing on its back legs, role towards your opponents hind legs to unbalance him.
Upright lock - Finial, crushing more on already weakened opponent. Rear up on your back legs and bring full weight on your opponent. If opponent does the same, wrestle and flip him under you. This move makes you vulnerable to the belly rake, so requires great strength and speed.
And here are some battle tactics: (credit goes to forums.warriorcats.com/topic/362288771041575324 too)
Approach from behind your enemy - The advantage is gaining the higher ground is that you can charge at greater speed at the enemy, who will be weakened by having to fight uphill.
Use the light from the sun - The sun should be behind you to dazzle your Use the light from the sun enemy. In green leaf, the midday sun is especially bright and cruel to cats who are used to sulking under the cover of the trees. In leaf bare, the low sun hovers around the eye line like a troublesome bee, keep your enemy from facing it, and they'll have trouble seeing an attacker from any direction.
Know were the wind is coming from - If there is a strong wind, it should be blow from behind you toward the enemy, blinding them with dust and holding them back like a current of a river. If you wish to preserve the element of surprise, the wind should blow from the enemy position toward you so your scent is carried away from them.
Conceal the size of your force - The number of cats in your battle patrols can be hidden to confuse the enemy from a distance. Cats packed tightly together will appear as a small attacking force, encouraging the enemy to be over confidant and make poor strategic decisions. Alternatively, is cats are spread out in signal file, they will look like a solid border of warriors, which will seem impenetrable to an advancing enemy.
Attack from both ends of the Enemy first - If both ends of the enemy line are defeated, the cats in the center of the line will have to fight the two fronts. Even if they are outnumbered, the will be out flanked, vulnerable, and in disarray.
Keep fresh warriors in reserve - Always have adequate reserves of fresh, fit warriors behind the battle line. They will be able to replace injured warriors, launch a separate attack if the enemy tries to encircle your forces, or fend off a surprise enemy from the rear. If the battle is in your favor, finish it by sending your reserve warriors behind the enemy line to surround them and demand surrender.
Feigned retreat and ambush - A group of strong cats charges at the enemy, screeching, then turns and withdraws. Repeat this until the infuriated enemy finally breaks it's line and gives chase. Then the trap is sprung. Other warriors positioned in rabbit holes and other dips in the ground-out of enemy eyes line- attack as soon as your opponents have gone past. The enemy will be forced to stop and turn around to fight the unexpected threat, as they do the retreating cats must turn and charge back at them with full speed. The enemy is caught between two bodies of attacking cats and will quickly surrender.
Here is a picture of the mossy hollow:
Training Rocks: